INTRODUCTION AND SHORT DEFINITION
- Remember : all Tequilas are Mezcal but not all Mezcal are Tequilas.
- Mezcal can be made from 5 different species (8 subspecies) of Agave
- Mezcal is now a DO (Denominacion de Origen)
- Mezcal can only be made in designated states in Mexico
Below you'll find Mezcal in a nutshell aka Mezcal 101. Should you need to know more and read offline, simply download the book below.
HISTORY
Mezcal has Pulque as ancestor, and was probably invented when Pulque met the distillation techniques brought (by force) by the colonizers from Europe after 1492. The word probably comes from the Nahuatl language and the word mexcalmetl which refers to the agave plant.
GEOGRAPHY & REGULATION
Mezcal is a DO (Denominacion de Origen), just like Champagne or Armagnac since 1994. It protects the name Mezcal from being applied to products made from anything except the allowed and approved agave plants.
It can be only be made in 9 states, nut not everywhere in those states.
The states are
Oaxaca
Durango
San Luis Potosi
Zacatecas
Puebla
Guerrero
Tamaulipas (not all states)
Michoacan (not all states)
and the town of San Luiz de la Paz (in Guanajuato)
Most Mezcal come from Oaxaca. Oaxaca is the center of the Mezcal world, as 80-90% of Mezcals are made in Oaxaca.
Unlike Tequila it can only be exported in bottle and not in bulk. Mezcal made using only agave is labelled "100% Agave Mezcal".
Since 2016, all mezcal made outside of those region must be labelled "Aguardiente de Agave".
It can be only be made in 9 states, nut not everywhere in those states.
The states are
Oaxaca
Durango
San Luis Potosi
Zacatecas
Puebla
Guerrero
Tamaulipas (not all states)
Michoacan (not all states)
and the town of San Luiz de la Paz (in Guanajuato)
Most Mezcal come from Oaxaca. Oaxaca is the center of the Mezcal world, as 80-90% of Mezcals are made in Oaxaca.
Unlike Tequila it can only be exported in bottle and not in bulk. Mezcal made using only agave is labelled "100% Agave Mezcal".
Since 2016, all mezcal made outside of those region must be labelled "Aguardiente de Agave".
HOW IS MEZCAL MADE?
BASE MATERIAL: SEVERAL AGAVE SPECIES ARE PERMITTED
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Agave Angustifolia (espadin)
Agave Esperrima Agave de Cerro, Bruto and Cenizo Agave Patatorum (tobala) Agave Salmanio (maguey verde) Agave Weberi (along with other agave not used for another DO in the same state, for example if one agave is used to make bacanora in one state it cannot be used to make mezcal) 90% of Mezcal are made using Esapdin. Espadín is similar to the Blue Agave traditionally used in the production of Tequila. However, since Blue Agave grows in different climates than does Espadín, the geographical distinction alone is enough to create a differentiation in taste. |
HARVESTING
Most agave plants need up to 6 to 10 years to mature but up to 14 for some exception depending of the region, the climatic conditions, the type of agaves and the sugar level in the head. Indeed the size of the agave head (piña) is not as important as its sugar content.
The Jimadores’ knowledge and experience is crucial to make sure only the piñas having reached perfect maturity are picked.
There is a short window of only a few months between the optimum sugar level and the over-ripening of the agave. The best harvesting is at the end of the dry season when the sugar content is at its highest. Last but not least: harvest is done manually.
The Jimadores’ knowledge and experience is crucial to make sure only the piñas having reached perfect maturity are picked.
There is a short window of only a few months between the optimum sugar level and the over-ripening of the agave. The best harvesting is at the end of the dry season when the sugar content is at its highest. Last but not least: harvest is done manually.
CUTTING & COOKING
When the piñas arrive at the distillery, they are sliced into sections before being placed in an oven. Cooking length, style and time in the year will impact the style.
3 reasons why pinas are cooked
1: It transforms or converts the inulin contained in the piñas into fermentable sugar, crucial to start fermentation at a later stage
2: It softens the piñas, which will be easier to mill afterwards
3: It adds aromas that will impact the style of the future tequila
The cooking of the piñas mostly takes place in in-ground ovens over firewood. The pit is typically about 5 meters wide and 2 meter deep, and cone shaped down to the bottom. It is lined with rock. There are a wide diversity of fire techniques, more or less sophisticated. Generally, a fire is started in the bottom with wood and leftover fibers. This fire heats the rocks to extreme heat. The piñas are then quickly piled into the pit and covered with about 50 cm of earth, topped with a necessary chimney. This underground oven smokes, cooks and almost caramelizes the piñas. This is where Mezcal gets its earthy and smoky flavours.
3 reasons why pinas are cooked
1: It transforms or converts the inulin contained in the piñas into fermentable sugar, crucial to start fermentation at a later stage
2: It softens the piñas, which will be easier to mill afterwards
3: It adds aromas that will impact the style of the future tequila
The cooking of the piñas mostly takes place in in-ground ovens over firewood. The pit is typically about 5 meters wide and 2 meter deep, and cone shaped down to the bottom. It is lined with rock. There are a wide diversity of fire techniques, more or less sophisticated. Generally, a fire is started in the bottom with wood and leftover fibers. This fire heats the rocks to extreme heat. The piñas are then quickly piled into the pit and covered with about 50 cm of earth, topped with a necessary chimney. This underground oven smokes, cooks and almost caramelizes the piñas. This is where Mezcal gets its earthy and smoky flavours.
GRINDING
After the cooking, piñas must rest for up to 2 days to cool down before being sent to grinding. Grinding a.k.a. milling is the action of crushing and shredding the piñas.
With traditional making Mezcal pinas are crushed with a stone wheel drawn around a circular mill by a mule, named Tahona and shredded to extract a juice that will be later fermented.
With traditional making Mezcal pinas are crushed with a stone wheel drawn around a circular mill by a mule, named Tahona and shredded to extract a juice that will be later fermented.
FERMENTATION
This liquid obtained from the grinding process, together with yeast (natural, commercial or wild) and water are poured together in tanks and left to ferment. Wild yeasts are more commonly used so the fermentation can take up to 30 days. Many different fermentation containers are used from animal skin to wood barrels and clay pots. The receptacles are often placed outdoor with open tank and no roof protection. Sometimes left over fibers from the grinding are put back in the tank to give additional flavors, it is sometimes compulsary to add the fibers (Mezcal Ancestral).
DISTILLATION
Distillation is the process of separating the component substances from a liquid through evaporation and condensation. The liquid known as Tepache is put over fire and heated until water is boiling and evaporates first. Ethanol being heavier is evaporating later and collected separately, in one go as in the case of continuous stills or in two distillations with a pot still. Pot stills are mainly used. Filipino like Pot style are also in use (a very rudimentary but efficient old fashioned pot still) in which alcohol is condensed and collected on a clay pot within the still).
Depending of the style of Mezcal, the fibers of the agave plant can be added during distillation.
Depending of the style of Mezcal, the fibers of the agave plant can be added during distillation.
A GREAT VIDEO COMPARING MEZCAL AND TEQUILA MAKING
DILLUTING, BOTTLING & AGEING
Most Mezcal are un-aged and will be diluted and bottled after a month rest.
When it is ready to drink, it is diluted with water at a bottling strength of 35 - 50% abv.
When it is ready to drink, it is diluted with water at a bottling strength of 35 - 50% abv.
THE STYLES OF MEZCAL
Same classification than tequila
Both the classification and the "premiumisazion" of Tequila have inspired Mezcal producers to undertake similar measures (reposado, etc).
Since 2016, two new categories have been created
- Mezcal Artesanal: does not allow stainless steel in the cooking process, nor fermentation process, and distillation is made on direct fire.
- Mezcal Ancestral: like Mezcal Artesanal but agave fibers must be added during fermentation and distillation.
Single origin
In the past few years an increasing number of high-end Mezcals including some “single village” bottlings have been introduced to the market.
Specialties
Then, there are specialties such as (chicken infused) pechuga.
Both the classification and the "premiumisazion" of Tequila have inspired Mezcal producers to undertake similar measures (reposado, etc).
Since 2016, two new categories have been created
- Mezcal Artesanal: does not allow stainless steel in the cooking process, nor fermentation process, and distillation is made on direct fire.
- Mezcal Ancestral: like Mezcal Artesanal but agave fibers must be added during fermentation and distillation.
Single origin
In the past few years an increasing number of high-end Mezcals including some “single village” bottlings have been introduced to the market.
Specialties
Then, there are specialties such as (chicken infused) pechuga.
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Cheers!
Cheers!
credits and thank you
The wonderful illustrations are all from Ana Briceño : check her fantastic work HERE
@Ana Briceño, all rights reserved 2015-2019
@Ana Briceño, all rights reserved 2015-2019
