INTRODUCTION AND SHORT DEFINITION
Gin is a clear spirit with juniper as overpowering flavour.
If you want to read this class offline, click the button below. This is not the same content, the class is more developped.
If you want to read this class offline, click the button below. This is not the same content, the class is more developped.
HISTORY OF GIN
The actual origins of gin can be traced back to Benelux between 13th and 16th century.
For most, it seems that Dr. Franciscus de Le Boe Sylvius invented Gin in 1650. He was a medical professor at the University of Leyden, in the Netherlands.
“The problem with this theory is that Dr. Sylvius was born in the 17th century and that during his fourteen-year tenure as a professor at the University of Leyden his research included distilling medicines with juniper berry oil, but none of his research papers contain any reference to jenever“
„Additionally, in 1606 the Dutch had already levied taxes on jenever and similar liquors which were sold as alcoholic drinks, suggesting that jenever had stopped being seen as a medicinal remedy many years before Dr. Sylvius was even born".
So while the legend of Dr. Sylvius’s “medicine” may be more myth than fact, it has become the tale most people know.
For others, the inventor may be Belgian Thomas de Cantimpré whose thirteen-century “Liber de Natura Rerum” was translated to Dutch by a contemporary Jacov van Maerlant in his 1266 work “Der Naturen Bloeme”. The text recommended boiling juniper berries in rainwater or wine to cure stomach pain. This is the first written mentions of a recipe stipulating jenever.
Lastly „The Nationaal Jenevermuseum Hasselt Belgium claims unequivocally that jenever was created in the lowlands of Flanders in the thirteenth century. Their assertion is given credence by commentary in 'Jenever in de Lage Landen' by author Prof. Dr. Eric Van Schoonenberghe.“
For most, it seems that Dr. Franciscus de Le Boe Sylvius invented Gin in 1650. He was a medical professor at the University of Leyden, in the Netherlands.
“The problem with this theory is that Dr. Sylvius was born in the 17th century and that during his fourteen-year tenure as a professor at the University of Leyden his research included distilling medicines with juniper berry oil, but none of his research papers contain any reference to jenever“
„Additionally, in 1606 the Dutch had already levied taxes on jenever and similar liquors which were sold as alcoholic drinks, suggesting that jenever had stopped being seen as a medicinal remedy many years before Dr. Sylvius was even born".
So while the legend of Dr. Sylvius’s “medicine” may be more myth than fact, it has become the tale most people know.
For others, the inventor may be Belgian Thomas de Cantimpré whose thirteen-century “Liber de Natura Rerum” was translated to Dutch by a contemporary Jacov van Maerlant in his 1266 work “Der Naturen Bloeme”. The text recommended boiling juniper berries in rainwater or wine to cure stomach pain. This is the first written mentions of a recipe stipulating jenever.
Lastly „The Nationaal Jenevermuseum Hasselt Belgium claims unequivocally that jenever was created in the lowlands of Flanders in the thirteenth century. Their assertion is given credence by commentary in 'Jenever in de Lage Landen' by author Prof. Dr. Eric Van Schoonenberghe.“
Whoever the first person might have been, as with many other spirits, gin was intended to be used as a medicine. The goal was to find an inexpensive diuretic to use in the treatment of kidney disorders. The fact that Juniper may cure kidneys and liver is known since the Greek. What made the Jenever recipe so revolutionary was not the use of Juniper, it had been used before in dozens of liqueur formulas, but the choice of grain alcohol. Most beverage alcohol had been made from grapes or other fruits. While the Scotch and Irish were making whiskies from grain, they tempered them with years of aging in wooded casks. Unaged grain spirits, at least those produced with the 17th century technology, were considered too harsh for human consumption. But Genever tasted good and it was relatively inexpensive to produce.
The medical use has been quickly let aside and distilleries quickly established and start producing genever. The name was then shortened into 'Gin' over time by the English, after they discovered the drink while fighting along the with the Dutch Soldiers in the late 1500s. The appreciation has been reinforced by the fact that a king from Netherland became the king of England (making Gin an English drink) and also by a distilling act in 1690 that allows everyone to distil. In 1690 after the distilling act anyone who wished to distill, simply needed to post a notice of intention before starting up.
The medical use has been quickly let aside and distilleries quickly established and start producing genever. The name was then shortened into 'Gin' over time by the English, after they discovered the drink while fighting along the with the Dutch Soldiers in the late 1500s. The appreciation has been reinforced by the fact that a king from Netherland became the king of England (making Gin an English drink) and also by a distilling act in 1690 that allows everyone to distil. In 1690 after the distilling act anyone who wished to distill, simply needed to post a notice of intention before starting up.
GEOGRAPHY OF GIN
Gin can be done anywhere in the world. Legal definition difers according country.
how is gin made?
BASE MATERIAL: CLEAR NEUTRAL SPIRIT + BOTANICALS
- Gin is a clear neutral spirit. The base material can be as varied than for vodka. Gin can be made with any fermentable ingredients, like vodka. If vodka is infused with juniper, it becomes gin. According to EU regulation, Gin can in principle contain any alcohol of agricultural origin. It mostly depends (or has long depended) on locally available material. It is usually made from cereal, mainly wheat, which is the predominant agriculturally, derived base material of neutral alcohol and for most of the gins, it does not impact the final taste. The usual mash for English gin, for example, is 75% maize, 15% barley malt and 10% other grains, although rectified spirit from molasses is also used.
- What impact the taste is:
- the quality of the distillation, and the choice of stills (pot vs. continuous)
- the methods to add flavourings
However now that techniques have improved, more and more producers are working on the base material in such a way that it influences the final taste. For example French G - Vine is produced from grape brandy, Gin Bavarka from potatoes, Cap rock Organic Gin from apples or Diploma Dry Gin is made from beetroot. Even wheat can be not neutral, for example from local, sustainably grown grains used for the Blue Gin to the French spring wheat in Hoxton Gin, exceptional crops pass on their particular nuances to the gin. Or at least, this is what marketing campaigns promise.
THE BOTANICALS IN GIN
These flavouring agents define gin, not the base material. The more or less sophisticated way the different ingredients will be integrated in the spirit will define the quality. Most of the Juniper berries themselves are imported from Italy but some American Gins use local varieties.
Some components and what they bring to the wedding:
Juniper* gives the characteristic pine-like, heather, lavender notes. Coriander seeds bring spicy notes, sometimes peppery (if coming from Morocco), more citric and/or floral if it comes from East Europe (especially from the Czech republic). Angelica roots brings musky, earthy, dry aromas. Orris roots provide the final alcohol with earthy, violets aromas. It is also used as they have the capacity to hold volatile flavour compounds.
Speaking of which, dried citrus peels brings a certain zestyness and freshness. It is the most delicate flavour to capture, as it is highly volatile. This is the first component to evaporate during distillation process, after the heads. Temperature must not be too high if citrus peels are used.
Dried orange peels are known for bringing an intense slightly bitter edge. Cinnamon and cassia bark often bring sweet tropical note. Bitter or sweet almonds convey a marzipan hint. Liquorice gives a perception of sweetness, which softens the juniper
Many other ingredients can be used like nutmeg, caraway; actually, the whole range of worldwide available botanicals/fruits can be used.
Some components and what they bring to the wedding:
Juniper* gives the characteristic pine-like, heather, lavender notes. Coriander seeds bring spicy notes, sometimes peppery (if coming from Morocco), more citric and/or floral if it comes from East Europe (especially from the Czech republic). Angelica roots brings musky, earthy, dry aromas. Orris roots provide the final alcohol with earthy, violets aromas. It is also used as they have the capacity to hold volatile flavour compounds.
Speaking of which, dried citrus peels brings a certain zestyness and freshness. It is the most delicate flavour to capture, as it is highly volatile. This is the first component to evaporate during distillation process, after the heads. Temperature must not be too high if citrus peels are used.
Dried orange peels are known for bringing an intense slightly bitter edge. Cinnamon and cassia bark often bring sweet tropical note. Bitter or sweet almonds convey a marzipan hint. Liquorice gives a perception of sweetness, which softens the juniper
Many other ingredients can be used like nutmeg, caraway; actually, the whole range of worldwide available botanicals/fruits can be used.
Pictures: Stauffenberg Gin!
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Pictures: Stauffenberg Gin!
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Pictures: Stauffenberg Gin!
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Pictures: Stauffenberg Gin!
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Botanical names in Latin:
juniper - juniperus communis
coriander - coriandrum sativum
angelica - archangelica officinalis
cassia - cinnamomum cassia
cinnamon - cinnamomum zeylanicum
liquorice - glycyrrihiza sp.
bitter almond - prunus dulcis, amara
grains of paradise - afromumum melegueta
cubeb berries - piper cubeba
bitter orange - citrus aurantium
sweet orange - citrus sinensis
lemon - citrus limon
ginger - zingiber officinale
orris root - iris florentina
cardamon - elletaria cardamomum
nutmeg - myristica fragrans
savory - satureja hortensis
calamus - acorus calamus
chamomile - matricaria chamomilla
HOW DO BOTANICALS BRING FLAVOUR? THE QUESTION OF EXTRACTION
As said in a previous post, the base material needs to be a good white spirits to create a good gin. Then this is all about how to integrate the flavours.
In the article below, we are going to explore the different methods, from the most sophisticated to the quicker and cheaper.
In the article below, we are going to explore the different methods, from the most sophisticated to the quicker and cheaper.
distillation
Think essential oil. Essential oils are obtained via distillation. The ingredient is soaked into water and heated. The principle is that when distilled in the presence of alcohol the essential oils are released, mingle with the vapour and are carried across to be condensed as soon as cooled down in the cooler part of the still. The resulting liquid will be a concentrate of the ingredients; it is what is named essential oil.
Top-quality gins and genevers are flavoured this way. After one or more distillations the base spirit is redistilled one last time with the ingredients. The ingredient are whether in the spirit itself of suspended in a “botanical baskets” above the boiling spirit, in the upper part of the copper pots allowing the distilled vapour to pass though it (see percolation below) such as Bombay Sapphire. The vapour softly extracts aromatic and flavouring oils and compounds from the berries and spices as it travels through the chamber on its way to the condenser. Distilling the spirits with the botanicals is the most expensive method of adding flavourings. It requires not only time for each run but also a lifetime expertise of a master distiller. Only an experienced distiller knows when to cut and in which order proceeding to add flavours according to the characteristics of every ingredients and how long the run should last. For example the longer the gin run lasts the deeper and rootier the aromas.
To sum up. There are 2 way distillation is used to make gin.
There are two fairly similar methods of achieving this; direct distillation or redistillation.
In direct distillation the fermented grain mash is pumped into the still. Then it is heated and the spirit vapors pass through a "gin head", a sort of percolator basket filled with Juniper, herbs and other natural ingredients. It picks up the delicate flavoring agents as it passes through and then condenses into a high proof Gin. Water is added to bring the product down to its bottling strength, usually 80°.
The other method, redistillation, differs only in that the fermented mash is first distilled into a flavorless neutral spirit. Then it is placed in a second still, containing a "gin head", and is redistilled, with vapors absorbing the flavoring agents.
Source
Think essential oil. Essential oils are obtained via distillation. The ingredient is soaked into water and heated. The principle is that when distilled in the presence of alcohol the essential oils are released, mingle with the vapour and are carried across to be condensed as soon as cooled down in the cooler part of the still. The resulting liquid will be a concentrate of the ingredients; it is what is named essential oil.
Top-quality gins and genevers are flavoured this way. After one or more distillations the base spirit is redistilled one last time with the ingredients. The ingredient are whether in the spirit itself of suspended in a “botanical baskets” above the boiling spirit, in the upper part of the copper pots allowing the distilled vapour to pass though it (see percolation below) such as Bombay Sapphire. The vapour softly extracts aromatic and flavouring oils and compounds from the berries and spices as it travels through the chamber on its way to the condenser. Distilling the spirits with the botanicals is the most expensive method of adding flavourings. It requires not only time for each run but also a lifetime expertise of a master distiller. Only an experienced distiller knows when to cut and in which order proceeding to add flavours according to the characteristics of every ingredients and how long the run should last. For example the longer the gin run lasts the deeper and rootier the aromas.
To sum up. There are 2 way distillation is used to make gin.
There are two fairly similar methods of achieving this; direct distillation or redistillation.
In direct distillation the fermented grain mash is pumped into the still. Then it is heated and the spirit vapors pass through a "gin head", a sort of percolator basket filled with Juniper, herbs and other natural ingredients. It picks up the delicate flavoring agents as it passes through and then condenses into a high proof Gin. Water is added to bring the product down to its bottling strength, usually 80°.
The other method, redistillation, differs only in that the fermented mash is first distilled into a flavorless neutral spirit. Then it is placed in a second still, containing a "gin head", and is redistilled, with vapors absorbing the flavoring agents.
Source
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percolation Percolation can almost be seen as a variation of distillation. It can be done either hot or cold. The raw material (or flavouring agent) is placed in a container of sorts and the raw alcohol is either bubbled through it for a few days to weeks or it is brought to a boil, so that the vapours rise, percolate through the flavouring agent and fall back into the main pot, much like the old coffee percolators. The “hot” version is close to distillation. The different ingredients are then blended to create the gin. |
infusion Infusion is similar to maceration in that the flavouring agent is soaked in the white neutral spirit. The difference is that the alcohol is heated. This heat is maintained for several days and the result is a more flavourful and less expensive product. When the neutral spirit is infused, at least with Juniper, it is redistilled to fix the flavours. |
maceration The goal is to obtain the aromatic substances from the raw materials. This method is used when the raw materials would lose some of their flavour or characteristics if they were heated. In basic terms, the raw material is immersed in the raw alcohol until that spirit absorbs the flavour. For Sacred Gin for example they have whole lemon macerated in the spirit up to 6 weeks. The different ingredients are then blended to create the gin. |
cold compounding This method consists of adding natural or artificial flavourings to the base spirit, this results in a lower quality product as the flavouring doesn't bind as well to the base and often the most volatile aromas/flavours such as citrus will be lost very shortly. We will mention this category later in the post about gin classification. |
This is important to keep in mind distiller may mix those different techniques according to the ingredients, and that the border between two techniques is sometimes fine. It is useful to be familiar with the different terms though.
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DISTILLATION OF GIN
Illustration Ana Briceno, all right reserved
Distillation procedures matter as type, shape and size of still will have impact on the final style.
Let’s take the example of a gin made in the most traditional way, the botanicals are added and distillation begins on a pot still. Pot still can’t rectify alcohol very high, the base spirits will then keep some compounds, hence flavour form the base material. Genever for example is distilled in less-efficient pot stills, which results in a lower-proof, more flavourful spirit.
Today, most gin are initially distilled in efficient column stills. The resulting spirit is high-proof, light-bodied, and clean with a minimal amount of congeners (flavour compounds) and flavouring agents. Every Gin is distilled differently. Premium gins are distilled 3 to 5 times to remove impurities.
More than any other spirits Gin can be considered as a canvas. On clean spirits, the added flavouring ingredients will make all the difference.
There are other methods little used like Sacred Gin, which is not distilled in pot still but in glassware under vacuum. Vacuum distillation means that air is sucked out of the glass ware with a vacuum pump which reduces the pressure so that distillation occurs at low temperature, so the distillates are very flagrant and fresh.
GIN BLENDING
Premium gin distillers indeed distill their botanicals separately and will very precisely blend them all back together.
CAN GIN AGE?
Gin is indeed usually unaged but experiences are being made for example with Citadelle Gin, or Corsair Experimental Collection Barrel-aged gin, or Saint George Spirits Reposado Gin. This is interesting that they name it reposado as this experience with gin are very close to the ageing tequila experiences done these days. This is still unclear how much it improves the spirits but this is clearly a marketing tool welcomed much by consumers. Lengthy maturation can also smooth or moderate the freshness of the aromas so it needs to be very well monitored by the distillers.
Before being consumed gin must be reduced with water to its bottling strength and bottled at a minimum alcoholic strength of 37.5 % abv (40% in the US).
Diluting is a delicate process. The diluting step can also be the object of marketing. For example, Miller’s Gin however takes this to an almost obsessive extreme transporting the elixir on a 3000 miles round trip to Borganes in Iceland to be blended with what is considered to be the purest water on the planet.
Before being consumed gin must be reduced with water to its bottling strength and bottled at a minimum alcoholic strength of 37.5 % abv (40% in the US).
Diluting is a delicate process. The diluting step can also be the object of marketing. For example, Miller’s Gin however takes this to an almost obsessive extreme transporting the elixir on a 3000 miles round trip to Borganes in Iceland to be blended with what is considered to be the purest water on the planet.
THE STYLES OF GIN
More than any other spirits Gin can be considered as a canvas, especially on highly rectified neutral spirits. Over the years, many different styles of Gin have been developed.
Don't forget to read the section on Genever to complete the question of the style of gin.
Don't forget to read the section on Genever to complete the question of the style of gin.
ENGLISH GIN
The United Kingdom produces mostly dry Gin, primarily from column stills. British gins tend to be high proof (90° or 45% ABV) and citrus-accented from the use of dried lemon and Seville orange peels in the mix of botanicals. British gins are usually combined into mixed drinks.
A Gin like Hendrick’s, where the flavourings for example rose and cucumber, are added after the last distillation can’t pretend to the name of Dry gin.
The United Kingdom produces mostly dry Gin, primarily from column stills. British gins tend to be high proof (90° or 45% ABV) and citrus-accented from the use of dried lemon and Seville orange peels in the mix of botanicals. British gins are usually combined into mixed drinks.
A Gin like Hendrick’s, where the flavourings for example rose and cucumber, are added after the last distillation can’t pretend to the name of Dry gin.
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Plymouth Gin is another style of within what is
generally named English Gin. It is relatively full-bodied (when compared
to London Dry Gin). It is clear, slightly fruity, and very aromatic.
Originally the local Gin style of the English Channel port of Plymouth,
modern Plymouth Gin is nowadays made only by one distillery in Plymouth,
Coates & Co., which also controls the right to the term Plymouth
Gin. Old Tom Gin is the last remaining example of the
original lightly sweetened gins that were so popular in 18th-century
England. The name comes from what may be the first example of a beverage
vending machine. In the 1700s some pubs in England would have a wooden
plaque shaped like a black cat (an "Old Tom") mounted on the outside
wall. Thirsty passersby would deposit a penny in the cat’s mouth and
place their lips around a small tube between the cat’s paws. The
bartender inside would then pour a shot of Gin through the tube and into
the customer’s waiting mouth. Old Tom style gins still exist and are even having a revival these days. It is generally (or it was) slightly sweeter. AMERICAN GIN American Dry Gins tend to be lower proof (80° or 40% abv.) and less flavourful than their English counterparts. In addition to the required juniper, which defines Gin, these new American Gins are flavoured with a wider array of regional botanicals, regional fruit, citrus or floral ingredients, as well as herbs and spices. |
London Dry Gin is the dominant style of within what is generally named English Gin. London dry Gin appeared soon after the continuous still was invented in 1831. This new still made a purer spirit possible, encouraging English distillers to try an unsweetened or dry style (Sugars had been used to mask the rough and unpleasant flavours that could show up in older pot still production). This style is made with fermentable mash consisting of 75% corn, 15% barley malt, and 10% other grains, and is flavoured with a number of spices, herbs and botanicals. The distinctive London dry gin flavour comes primarily from juniper berries, but many other items are used, including orange peel, cardamom, cassia bark, coriander, and angelica root. Originally, the phrase "London dry Gin" specified a geographic location; that the Gin was made in or near London. Now, the term is considered to be generic, London Dry gin can be made anywhere on earth, as the word is used to describe a style of Gin for which flavourings may be added only during the last distillation and must be natural. The ethyl alcohol must be of high quality and the gin must contain at least 70% alcohol after distillation. No colouring may be added after distillation, though sugar may be added to the end product (but no more than 0.1g of sugar per liter). After distillation nothing else can be added except water. SPANISH GIN Spain produces a substantial amount of Gin, in the London Dry style from column stills. Most of it is sold for mixing with tonic water. Contrary to common sense that associates England and high gin consumption, Philippines and Spain are bigger gin consuming countries. Spain is the largest Gin market in the EU and third largest in the world and the Philippines is the world's largest Gin market with San Miguel being by far the largest brand. In global terms, Philippine gin accounts for some 43% of the world gin market. Source: IWRS, 2013 |
