INTRODUCTION AND SHORT DEFINITION
Armagnac is a brandy (=wine distillate) made in southwestern of France, south East from Bordeaux.
GEOGRAPHY
The Armagnac terroir covers part of Gascony between Garonne, Pyrenees and Landes. The climate brings contrasting influences, oceanic in the west and continental in the east. The vines thus benefit from almost constant mild weather at day, chilling winds at night, and moderate rainfall, which is very favourable to a slow ripening of the grapes.
There is a map below.
There is a map below.
HISTORY
Armagnac is one of the oldest French brandy, it is already mentioned in writings back in 1310 (a certain Vital du Four, a Franciscan theologian, indeed wrote 40 Virtues of Armagnac that year). Due to their close proximity to the Spanish border, wine makers in this region were amongst the first in France to learn methods of distillation from the Moors who ruled Spain during the middle ages. There are documented references to distillation around the time of 1411, so Armagnac actually predates the more well known Cognac.
It had decades of fame but has been, specially because of its geography (too secluded) overshadowed by its northern neighbor Cognac. It is quite hard to read anything about Armagnac without Cognac to be mentionned, whereas many Cognac books never bother to mention Armagnac. This is unfair and this is the reason why we opted for a special section dedicated to Armagnac vs. Cognac and we leave this page to Armagnac only, which does not need to be define against but for itself.
It had decades of fame but has been, specially because of its geography (too secluded) overshadowed by its northern neighbor Cognac. It is quite hard to read anything about Armagnac without Cognac to be mentionned, whereas many Cognac books never bother to mention Armagnac. This is unfair and this is the reason why we opted for a special section dedicated to Armagnac vs. Cognac and we leave this page to Armagnac only, which does not need to be define against but for itself.
RULES AND REGULATIONS
The Armagnac Appellation (PGI with EU system) is divided into three areas:
Wines from each of these regions are distilled and aged separately. However, some Armagnacs are also blended from brandies made from wines from two or all three sub-regions.
Here are some other rules (non exhaustive):
The Armagnac region is also known for Côtes de Gascogne wine and a fortified wine aperitif called Floc de Gascogne. These share the same AOC boundaries as Armagnac (16000 hectares alltogether).
Armagnac production is relatively small and three-quarters of the region's vineyards are dedicated to the production of Côtes de Gascogne wines.
- Armagnac-Ténarèze
- Bas-Armagnac
- Haut-Armagnac
Wines from each of these regions are distilled and aged separately. However, some Armagnacs are also blended from brandies made from wines from two or all three sub-regions.
Here are some other rules (non exhaustive):
- Armagnac comes from a plot of vines cultivated in a specific way on the appropriate terroir;
- Armagnac is distilled using a traditional alambic;
- Distillation must be completed no later than March 31st of the year following the harvest.
- Armagnac is aged in appropriate cellars where the ageing conditions (quality of the oak, capacity of the containers, buildings, aeration…) are controlled by the Bureau National Interprofessionel de l'Armagnac;
- Armagnac is quality controlled in the first year of ageing, in order to separate any eaux-de-vie that do not deserve the Appellation.
The Armagnac region is also known for Côtes de Gascogne wine and a fortified wine aperitif called Floc de Gascogne. These share the same AOC boundaries as Armagnac (16000 hectares alltogether).
Armagnac production is relatively small and three-quarters of the region's vineyards are dedicated to the production of Côtes de Gascogne wines.
HOW IS ARMAGNAC MADE?
BASE MATERIAL
The grape varieties:
- Ugni Blanc: 20 % of the planting. Also known as Trebbiano, it gives acidic and low alcohol wines. This variety is well adapted to all of the Armagnac terroirs.
- Folle Blanche: 2% of the planting. primary variety used before the phylloxera crisis, abandoned for its sensitivity to grey rot after grafting. Folle Blanche is not favoured for young Armagnacs as it really only comes into its own when aged for at least 15 years. With this level of maturity it shows great finesse with characteristic floral aromas and flavours to the blend. But this is the only grape permitted to be used to make unaged Blanche Armagnac.
- Colombard: Suited to early harvesting and the making of young Armagnac, Colombard brings herbal, hay, and sometimes fruity and spicy aromas to Armagnac.
- Baco: 30% of the planting. Baco makes Armagnac unique since the 19th century. See below for details.
- Clairette de Gascogne, Jurançon blanc, Plant de graisse, Meslier Saint François or Mauzac blanc and rosé are all old varieties that are cultivated on few hectares of vines even though certain ones are being replanted by some producers that wish to preserve the heritage and historic diversity of Armagnac.
The Black Baco was conceived at the beginning of the 20th century as a solution to phylloxera. It is a cross between an American grape variety (Vitis Riparia, Noah) and a French grape variety, Folle Blanche. The decline of the black Baco began in the 1930s with the birth of the AOC. It was considered that it produced wines that were blank and foxy. Moreover, it has been discovered that wines from hybrids may have some methanol.
In the 1950s, a European decree forbids the use of hybrids. Only a few old vines remain like Baco only white Baco also named Baco 22 continues to be authorised in the Armagnac AOC.
In the 1950s, a European decree forbids the use of hybrids. Only a few old vines remain like Baco only white Baco also named Baco 22 continues to be authorised in the Armagnac AOC.
FERMENTATION
The fermentation consists in making wine first. The base wine is acidic and low in alcohol for the following reasons:
- low alcohol levels (about 9% abv.) allow better concentration of the wine’s aromatic compounds. At the time they are to be distilled, wines must have a minimum alcoholic degree of 7% and a maximum alcoholic degree of 12%.
- high acidity is an indispensable quality for natural preservation of the wine (other tools such as addition of sulphur being prohibited).
DISTILLATION
The wine must be distilled by the end of March following the harvesting of the grapes. The Armagnac Appellation dictates that distillation must be completed no later than 31st March.
The grapes are first pressed in a continuous press, unstemmed, to make sure aromatic compound and their organoleptic characteristics are present.
Most of Armagnac (about 95%) is obtained using a traditional continuous Armagnac alambic. It is a pure copper apparatus adapted, modified, improved by the region’s distillers over centuries. It consists of a small boiler in which the wine is continually fed.
Armagnac is traditionally distilled only once and at a low temperature. Low-temperature means that the clear liquid at the end of the distillation traditionally oscillates from 52% to 60% abv, and is potentially richer in congeneers.
However, since 1972, pot-stills typical of Cognac, have also been permitted in Armagnac, and along with them, double pot distillation. The double distilled distillate will typically be 70-72% abv when it leaves the pot still. Fom 2019 one, even in case of double distillation technique, producers will be required to also have a traditional continuous Alambic armagnacais.
Most of Armagnac (about 95%) is obtained using a traditional continuous Armagnac alambic. It is a pure copper apparatus adapted, modified, improved by the region’s distillers over centuries. It consists of a small boiler in which the wine is continually fed.
Armagnac is traditionally distilled only once and at a low temperature. Low-temperature means that the clear liquid at the end of the distillation traditionally oscillates from 52% to 60% abv, and is potentially richer in congeneers.
However, since 1972, pot-stills typical of Cognac, have also been permitted in Armagnac, and along with them, double pot distillation. The double distilled distillate will typically be 70-72% abv when it leaves the pot still. Fom 2019 one, even in case of double distillation technique, producers will be required to also have a traditional continuous Alambic armagnacais.
MATURATION
When distillation is complete, what will become Armagnac is put into new 400 litre oak barrels named pièces.
Maturaiton is an important step as Armagnac gains much of its character and flavour during aging.
Barrels can come from many different forests but barrels from the Monlezun forest are the traditional choice (the forrest is very conveniently nearby). The black oak from the Monlezun forest is known for the high tannin content, which enhances the stronger flavor, darker color and overall smoothness of Armagnac. The barrels do not have to be new, even though it is often the case, and the cellar master will have to adapt the time the Eaux-de-Vies will spend in the barrel according to the age of the barrel. Six months in a new barrel is often sufficient whereas the Eaux-de-Vies can stay up to two years into a barrel that has been used once already.
These pièces are stored in the cellars where temperature and humidity are carefully monitored. High humidity is indeed essential. It used to be in humid cellars, in temperature controlled cellars, the casks are often sprayed to keep the humidity level high.
The cellar master is constantly checking the evolution of the Armagnac to avoid, for example :
When the time in new wood is decided sufficient, the Armagnac is then pumped into older barrels to continue its slow evolution. Interestingly, it is more often the spirit which is moved from cask to cask, while the casks themselves tend to stay in place in the cellars. Creating a perfect ecosystem takes time and one can easily understand how reluctant a maitre de chai can be to see it changed.
Maturing Armagnac greatly benefits from aeration (during the pumping process from one cask to another). Quality also depends from the time spent in wood. In contact with the wood it becomes more refined, aromas of vanilla and plum develop. The spirit turns from being a clear spirit to a more amber colour.
After a certain time, to make sure the spirit is not evolving more that it should it is transfered in glass jar until its blending.
Maturaiton is an important step as Armagnac gains much of its character and flavour during aging.
Barrels can come from many different forests but barrels from the Monlezun forest are the traditional choice (the forrest is very conveniently nearby). The black oak from the Monlezun forest is known for the high tannin content, which enhances the stronger flavor, darker color and overall smoothness of Armagnac. The barrels do not have to be new, even though it is often the case, and the cellar master will have to adapt the time the Eaux-de-Vies will spend in the barrel according to the age of the barrel. Six months in a new barrel is often sufficient whereas the Eaux-de-Vies can stay up to two years into a barrel that has been used once already.
These pièces are stored in the cellars where temperature and humidity are carefully monitored. High humidity is indeed essential. It used to be in humid cellars, in temperature controlled cellars, the casks are often sprayed to keep the humidity level high.
The cellar master is constantly checking the evolution of the Armagnac to avoid, for example :
- over tannin or oak characteristics extraction,
- non wanted oxidation,
- excessive evaporation.
When the time in new wood is decided sufficient, the Armagnac is then pumped into older barrels to continue its slow evolution. Interestingly, it is more often the spirit which is moved from cask to cask, while the casks themselves tend to stay in place in the cellars. Creating a perfect ecosystem takes time and one can easily understand how reluctant a maitre de chai can be to see it changed.
Maturing Armagnac greatly benefits from aeration (during the pumping process from one cask to another). Quality also depends from the time spent in wood. In contact with the wood it becomes more refined, aromas of vanilla and plum develop. The spirit turns from being a clear spirit to a more amber colour.
After a certain time, to make sure the spirit is not evolving more that it should it is transfered in glass jar until its blending.
Picture found on Armagnac.fr
BLENDING
Once the cellar master considers that the ageing is sufficient, he will start blending several Eaux-de-Vies from different ages, grape varieties and maturity together.
This blending process is called coupage and often involves the addition of distilled water, or petites-eaux to gradually reduce the alcoholic strength to bottling strength, which must be a minimum of 40% abv.
This blending process is called coupage and often involves the addition of distilled water, or petites-eaux to gradually reduce the alcoholic strength to bottling strength, which must be a minimum of 40% abv.
WHAT CAN STILL HAPPEN BEFORE BOTTLING OR THE QUESTION OF ADDITIVES
The permitted additives are water, boisé, caramel, and sugar syrup before bottling. The sugar must be less than 2% of the total volume.
Boisé is a dark liquid preparation resulting of the reduction the liquid obtained in boiling wood. It give the impression of extended wood aging. Often an Armagnac with boise also contains sugar as sugar is used to balance the bitter notes of the boise. It is a rather secret practice, and many (even very good) Armagnac producers will never admit its use.
THE STYLES OF ARMAGNAC
STYLE ACCORDING TO AGE
Age statements on Armagnac labels refer to the youngest Eau-de-Vie in the blend and the following recognised terms are in used:
Last but not least vintage means that the grapes must come entirely from the vintage listed on the label.
Armagnacs age in casks but not in the bottle, for that reason date of bottling gives more information than just the date of distillation.
FYI:
Recently unaged Armagnac has been released (Is this still Armagnac though??). It consists of a clear spirits, bottled from the still. The new appellation is named Blanche d’Armagnac and must be made from Baco, Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc. It reminds of Pisco.
- V.S. or *** - Must be at least one-year-old (since 2013) and two years if exported.
- V.S.O.P. - Must be at least four-years-old.
- X.O. & Napoléon - Must be at least six-years-old.
- Hors d'Âge - Must be ten years or older.
- Vintage - An age statement from a single year. This may be from a single cask or a blend of casks from different producers but all the Armagnac in the blend must have been harvested in the stated year. Vintage Armagnacs may be reduced to 40% abv. but most are bottled at their natural cask strength - typically between 40 and 48% abv
Last but not least vintage means that the grapes must come entirely from the vintage listed on the label.
Armagnacs age in casks but not in the bottle, for that reason date of bottling gives more information than just the date of distillation.
FYI:
Recently unaged Armagnac has been released (Is this still Armagnac though??). It consists of a clear spirits, bottled from the still. The new appellation is named Blanche d’Armagnac and must be made from Baco, Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc. It reminds of Pisco.
STYLE ACCORDING TO TERROIRS
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Bas Armagnac Soils: The vines grow on poor and acidic clay loam soils with pockets of iron elements in places that colour it reddish brown, hence their name "tawny sands". The "boulbènes", characteristic sediment in the region are predominantly silty soils. Style: The Armagnac from that region have a reputation of being elegant, light and fruity with a characteristic scent of ripe plums. Production: This sub appellation forms 57% of the production. Bas-Armagnac's main city is Eauze, home to the Bureau National Interprofessionel de l'Armagnac (BNIA) which oversees Armagnac production and marketing. |
Tenereze Soils: The land is criss-crossed by small streams and the sandy clay/limestone, chalky soils. Here we find "boulbènes" and "terreforts" (Gascon name given to clay-limestone soils that are heavy yet fertile). Style: The Armagnac from that region have a reputation of robust with earthy flavours, which benefit from prolonged aging, releasing a distinctive violet floral note. Production: This sub appellation forms 40% of Armagnac's vineyards. |
Haut Armagnac Soils: The predominantly chalky soil with areas of clay/limestone generally produces the least distinctive Armagnac. The hills are of limestone and clay-limestone whilst the valleys are sometimes covered with boulbènes. The vineyards here are quite sparse. Style: The Armagnac from that region have a reputation of being sturdy. Production: This sub appellation forms only 3% of Armagnac's vineyards. This is explained by the fact that 104 of the original 230 villages were removed from the Armagnac appellation area in 2005. |
OTHER RANDOM FACTS ABOUT TRADE
Armagnac is still made by hundreds of small producers. There are a couple of larger houses but nothing of the scale seen in Cognac. Armagnac tends to be produced by families rather conglomerates. There are farmers who sell their grapes to distillers or farmers who distil or farmer who distill and sell the brandy to negociants. So there are also négociants who buy brandy from distillers, age and blend it to make Armagnac or négociants who cultivate vineyards and distill. Like in the Champagne region, all combinations are possible.
How is Armagnac different from Cognac?
1. Armagnacais still instead of a Cognacais still
2. Use of Baco 22a grape
3. Only one distillation is required
4. Minimum aging requirement is 1 year
5. Lower distillate ABV = 52-72%
6. More full flavors because it has more congeners
7. Barrels made from black oak from Monlezun
8. Ages faster than Cognac
9. Armagnac was created before Cognac
10. Geography: more southern
